Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Agony Hill


          I first heard of the word “Panata” and witnessed it all at the same time when I was in college. My classmate and I were 15 minutes early for a Mass and as soon as we arrived in church, a harmless decrepit woman dressed in white caught our attention. She was doing the Way of the Cross in her brown and wrinkled bare feet. When the congregation stood for the entrance of the priest, I was surprised to see her parading behind the good father, her hands solemnly clasped in prayer and her eyes fixed on the cross by the altar. She kept her distance from the priest by standing a few meters away, but when he delivered his sermon, she stood behind him again, all the while bobbing her head up and down in agreement to whatever the priest said. It was a peculiar sight: she, an old woman who could probably only speak and understand Hiligaynon agreeing to the Irish Reverend whose English had been garbled by the flawed acoustics of the church. Since most churches in Iloilo are frequented by the most bizarre worshippers, I dismissed her as another “buang.” My friend however, explained that she’s simply doing her panata.
          My poor grasp of Tagalog never made me think that the word has something to do with vows as in Panatang Makabayan. I later discovered, though that the word has a religious significance and the examples border from the simple like lighting a candle before the Virgin Mary on one’s birthday to the extreme like crucifixion and self-flagellation during Holy Week. I could not find a seemly equivalent Hiligaynon word for it, but it is synonymous to the “Panaad” of Cebuano which means ‘act of promise.’
            I would like to share to you how I made my own panata. Just like the old woman, mine is also doing the Way of the Cross, though not on my bare feet because mine involves climbing a mountain with a rather browbeating name - Agony Hill. For six years now, my faithful trek to Agony Hill on a Holy Thursday has become my spiritual retreat, a purging of the soul as I endured the summer heat and a yearning of the heart as I offered petitions. Because of these, the mountain has become my friend, a silent witness to my struggles of rising and falling and rising again.
             Six years ago, I first climbed the mountain after making the most liberating decision of not continuing my teaching contract in a Chinese school. I was no longer happy with my work so when March came, I felt freer than any of the graduates. I was still high on the feeling of being emancipated from schoolwork that I jumped at every chance of getting invited to go anywhere, thus, I ended up going with my roommate to Agony Hill, a rolling valley towering over the quaint town of Alimodian 25 km off of Iloilo City.
         For many years, Agony Hill had been cleared to serve the faithfuls in their Via Crucis during Cuaresma. To make the penitential rite more meaningful for the visitors, the local government of the town and the parish church erected huge imitations of each station of the Way of the Cross.
           As soon as I was greeted by icons of the first station, I whispered my petitions. I was in between jobs, so not knowing where my next paycheck will come from, I prayed that I be given a job that will financially get me by. When I reached the summit, I stood before the giant cross, invisibly opened my chest and laid forth all the desires of my heart. Suffice it to say that when June came, I was given not only a teaching job in my alma mater but to my surprise, I was also given a person to love. And so, my panata of climbing Agony Hill every Holy Week came into existence. I’ve also learned to love the mountain not so much for the expiation of my sins nor for the request of favors, but for the sheer joy of climbing it.
          My 2009 visit of the mountain was the most blissful climb that I did. I hiked Agony Hill with the person whom I thought was the One. We did the obligatory Way of the Cross, but my eyes were set on him and him alone. That time, I had a job that thoroughly gave me professional pride and I was secure in the arms of this man. What could go wrong?
           My climb the next year gave me that answer. Around February 2010, our differences took a toll in the relationship that I decided to end it. But for old time’s sake, I asked him that we climb Agony Hill again hoping somehow that we could piece back our broken hearts together. He did accompany me, but we no longer held hands and the conversations were punctuated by awkward silence. Still, I hoped and prayed that our relationship be given a second chance.
             By 2011, I was still in denial and I was still longing for the man who once trailblazed Agony Hill with me. With a heavy heart, I trekked the mountain with some colleagues. Again, I stood by the giant cross and prayed that he be given back to me.
             My prayer wasn’t granted.
             Last year, I’ve finally accepted the fact we’re no longer going to climb mountains together. Trekking Agony Hill with the colleagues who became good friends, I realized that it was I who was given the second chance - a chance to meet other people, to discover my passions, and to love myself again.
             This year, I’ll once again scale Agony Hill on a Holy Thursday with friends and I’ll continue to do so up until these able knees will allow me. It has, after all become my panata. But perhaps I’ll invite that guy who gave me flowers last Valentine’s Day to join us. And before the giant cross, I’ll once again send my petitions to the heavens, but this time like the old woman, I’ll be clasping my hands in prayer and I’ll be fixing my eyes on Him and only on Him. 

Agony Hill, 2012

Agony Hill, 2011


Agony Hill 2010

My ex was the one who took my 2009 Agony Hill photos. I'd rather die than ask for copies.

Agony Hill, 2008